My speedo is DOA no noise or any thing.
Mom stated it was making awful noisies then just died a few years ago.
I need to pull the dash and replace all the back lights. I will check cable when I am in there.
The Gas gauge goes to about 1/4 of the tank and stays.  When I picked it up the gauge was working pretty good, up to 3/4+  of a tank when I filled it up, mom said it was intermittent..
It idles a little rough and the exhaust manifold is cracked up pretty good (bent tube type, not cast). I will eventually just pull it off and reweld, but it has been rewelded a few times already so I may need to look for a header (for a 2.5 lol.) or have something made.
The driver's window is off the regulator, seems that the little plastic rollers are deteriorated, that will have to be fixed soon, but for now it is held up with little wooden wedges.
KC

Oh wow.
I spent yesterday evening swapping the engine in the ghia. She is now sporting a 1776 SP.
I tried out several disto's on her and the 010 is in it now. This is a whole different car...
Pulls hard through all gears. I am going to tweak the timming up a little more. The 010 only advances like 18* so I am only getting 25* max advance where it is now. Shift at 4k in 3-4, was at 45mph. It is now @55. I was pulling a hill at the time as well... I went roaring down a straight away in my division and easily caught 70 mph.i am running a small 4 into 1 with a stinger and baffle. Spent a lot of time with the family this evening egging people's houses (candy eggs), so tomorrow is the long run to the gas station.
Specs are: reworked heads, new valves and hd German springs, new crank, rods and pistons. Case was opened up for this, and aligned bored, new clutch and pressure plate, off set doghouse cooler, FI doghouse with velocity stack, (all tin is there).  I am just running a 30/31 now, but am putting together a set of kadron a to go with a SP kadron intake I have. The power will go up as I give it more air when I go duals. I spent some coin on this, but it flat out moves now.
Wow...
KC

is the back half of the cable loose?

I've had #3 happen and it was a parts explosion. It wasn't awful, but I did get to pull the engine again for practice.

#2 caused #3... I attempted to straighten the torqued fork and broke it. Looked at the assembly and decided I could weld it... We have the technology.
Fixed.
Problem was new style clutch installed w/o guidance tube on input shaft. Cleaned and installed old spring plate and TO bearing with super new disk, feels smooth now. No serious damage done. If fork had not been torqued I would not have needed to completely remove engine. Needed extra space for welding and grinding. I also over torqued a clutch mounting bolt. Wasn't horrible, was able to just back out broken part when I drilled a hole to get a tip into. Put some seals in vert top, had to look up where they go...
Also scored a set of kadrons from Alvin.  He also had a much nicer set of 34's. I just wanted the kadrons because I have a sweet vintage SP intake for them.
Cannot decide what color to paint intake. Need filters, linkage etc...

Have a guy coming on Thursday to polish them to a mirror shine.

Tell me more about this. I have always wondered about who you get to do that. I'm not sure I have the patience to do it and every time I've asked about it at the powder coater (who polishes the pistons for the trophies) he says it would cost more than a new wheel for each wheel 

How do you find someone to polish wheels like this?

Who's the powdercoater for the trophies? I think autocycle quoted me like $150 a wheel for 15's a while back. I don't know what new would be though.

That's who I talked to

I asked at work about a powder coater we use here in Dalton and the Machine shop said there is a guy in Cleveland, TN that is more reasonable.
I will forward info to Russ when I get if so it can be put into the resources page.
Thanks.

Thanks for keeping the forums alive,  when I first started reading and saw posted on the samba I thought you were selling the ghia