Yep.  That would be the bushing.  If you have a hydraulic press and bushing drivers, you many want to use them, but you can do it without any special tools or skills . . . well, at least without any special tools.  Take the idler arm off, pull the bracket off the car, knock the old busing out and drive the new one in.  Use a rubber or plastic hammer if have one.  If you don't have one, buy one.  They come in handy.  OK, you can use a small ball peen hammer or a 3 pound sledge hammer if it's all you have . . . just be real careful not to deform the bushing . . . or you hand.  :wink:  I'd go with the brass or bronze bushing.  The stock style rubber bushing is a little cheaper and maybe a little easier to install, but they don't hold up well.  If you don't want to deal with driving the bushing in the bracket, they sell the bracket with a bronze bushing already installed . . . but I'm too cheap to pay someone 60 bucks to drive $20 bushing in a bracket.  Of course, it you mess up three or four of them trying to drive them in, that might be a good alternitive.

Need brake parts?  Here's a neat site for cheap parts if they have what you're looking for:

http://www.ufixitautoparts.com

They carry a lot of brake parts.  Cheap.  Like 90% off retail on most of their items.  I bought a fuel pump for an 88 Mercury Tracer from them for less than $35 with tax and shipping (they are in Atlanta, so I had to pay 7% tax . . . if they ship it out of GA, you don't have to pay tax).  The cheapest I could find the pump locally was $127 plus tax and to get them to honor the one year warranty, I had to buy a new $17 filter screen for it.  Their $35 one came with a new screen.  So $127 +$17 + 10 bucks for tax . . . that's $154 isn't it?  $35 sounds a lot better to me . . . especially since I bought an engine from Pull-A-Part for $107.71.  I'd really hate to have almost $50 more tied up in the fuel pump than in the engine!

If you buy $45 worth from ufixitautoparts.com and use promotional code 599874 and check out before 11:59 PM on August 15th, you get free shipping too.  

i got some parts from there when i blew my headgasket in atlanta a few years ago... was a really nice place, i think there is one on the north side and one on the south?

Yep, there are two near Atlanta, and also one in Birmingham, Nashville, Knoxville, Augusta, Louisville, KY, and Charlotte, NC.  There are several more of them under construction around the Gulf Coast (I bet there are lots of flooded cars to junk out in that region) and a few up north.  They buy junk cars, drain the fluids, set 'em up on 4 "jack stands" (one steel wheel lying flat with another one standing up inside it welded together) and let the public "have at 'em."  After they have set there for a few months, they crush whatever is left.  You can take any tools you want in with you except a jack or torch.  You pay for what you walk out the door with.  A 4 cylinder engine is $107.71 with a $20 core charge.  If you want 30 day no-questions-asked warranty, it's another $30.  Doesn't matter if the engine is from a 1929 Model A or a mid-70's Pinto or a 2005 BMW . . . all their 4 cylinder engines are the same price - $107.71

I as driving down 27 last week and when some knuckle head in a brand new JAG decided to stop in the middle of the road to let a grandma out from Wendys.   I did not expect that.   PANIC stop!!!!!   Stupie nose dived, then the left front locked up and I was headed in to on coming traffic. Pants check... Dry... Whew!@... i was going only 35.  What the heck?  Saturday i try to bleed the back brakes.  I fergot to do that the previous week when I did all the rear brake work.  Is this true. the brake pedal does not go to the floor when i bleed the back brakes.  At least stupie did'nt.  Just a little fluid dripped out,  not like the gusher i get when i bleed the fronts.  Wierd,  SC

I just remembered that you had a problem with a rear brake cly. Fell apart or something and you scraped it together ?   Maybe this is part of your problem. Cly may be taking on air or leaking or stuck. I for the sake of me can not see it from here. :lol:

If you bleed the brakes the way VW told us to (as per shop bull.)
     Rt front, left front, Rt. rear, left rear,  you would be correct. You can bleed them anyway you want to but it sometimes takes forever. :whistle:

Zen i did the pressure bleed.  You can be proud..   i got an old innertube from a road bike,  real skinny tire   cut it.  tied a knot  on one side.  then  fitted the cut end over the top filler for the brake fluid..  Attached a hand tire pump to the tub valve.  

Findings:  the Rear Right back did not work this way for some reason.  I think I have a problem. Maybe a pinched line or something  It only dribbles when I pump the pedal

 the left one sent  constant stream into my clear peanut butter jar like i expected..