Help with Slow Starter

copperjewel · « **Reply #510 on:** June 16, 2006, 03:30:44 AM »

There has to be at least a "paperback" book in here somewhere!!

Smelly_Cat · « **Reply #511 on:** June 16, 2006, 08:03:33 PM »

Hey all, I went to Manly and got a new pulley today for 12 bucks. I guess that was a good deal. let me know if I got ripped! and the salesman guy was sort of nice to me too. I'll throw it on Sat. SC

A Book. I like the idea. I'll title it " Beetles, Beats Prozac"

Zen · « **Reply #512 on:** June 17, 2006, 07:26:32 AM »

Quote from: "Smelly_Cat"

This was fun for about 7 times but now I think I need to replace the pully. Any body got a whole pulley? SC

SC, Stop by the house sometime this weekend and we'll pull one off of a bad generator. Got lots of them. Used to use AutoZone voltage regulators on Homer. Generators had a life expectancy of about 4 months.

Zen · « **Reply #513 on:** June 17, 2006, 07:29:29 AM »

:? Sorry 'bout making the offer after you bought one. Somehow I missed a page of the thread. :?

Zen · « **Reply #514 on:** June 17, 2006, 07:35:25 AM »

Quote from: "Smelly_Cat"

A Book. I like the idea. I'll title it " Beetles, Beats Prozac"

I was thinking more like "How to Bring Your Volkswagen Back to Life; A Manual of Step By Step Procedures for the Hoplessly Optimistic" . . . All we need is some cool artwort . . . Who 'round here can draw?

Smelly_Cat · « **Reply #515 on:** July 04, 2006, 07:48:35 AM »

Hi, I am back. sort off. I have a toyota engine apart working on head gasket, and a subaru radiator on order and to top it off redid a bathroom. Stupor Beetle is running but I need to move the fuel pump so it pushes the gas and not pulls it. I have had to road side prime the gas pump 7 times and I have grown weary. My stablizier in the front end keeps coming loose and I'm afraid that one end will disconnect and jam the the steering and drive me up a tree. Is it a job for lock tite or do i have the washers wrong, I did not see any lock washers. it looks like I have 2 star looking washers. I have a bunch of bar bells in the trunk to hold the front end down and i need to pull them out to tighten the bolt again. Its the only time I lift weights. Is there a front spring squisher I can buy so the front end does not look like it is about to wheelie? SC

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #516 on:** July 04, 2006, 10:32:44 AM »

Hey S.C., Are you talking about the steering damper (shock) across the tie rods? If so, I'm not sure why it would keep coming loose.
Do you have your Bug gas tank installed ? What do you mean prime? I don't know why your electric pump has to be primed. They are suppose to suck on one side and push on the other.
Your front shocks(struts) are not locked up are they ? Jump up and down on the front end and see if you have any movement up and down.

STAND BY. PHASE 3 or is it PHASE 9 is starting :roll:

Smelly_Cat · « **Reply #517 on:** July 04, 2006, 12:18:49 PM »

Bugtech, I took out the steering damper bolts and blued them with lock tight. it seems that when I really torque the damper bolts, the steering pops and boinks like it is binding so i just tightened them wimpy. My drive today was pretty good so maybe it will hold. I took out the 150 pounds of barbells and i have a high rider front and low rider butt bug . It is real easy to steer. I bet I can do some crazy things if i slam the brakes in a mud puddle

My fuel punp is mounted on the anti backfire thingy on the left side of the engine compartment. Ihate to let a good bolt go to waste so I afixed the fuel pumper to it. Now it is higher than the the fuel line and it has to suck gas up hill to pump it to the carb. Great design huh?. If it dont drive it every day the gas runs out of the pump and no suck. I looked for a place to put the fuel pump up front but so far I have no inspiration.

The shocks and springs are bottomed up. It got no up bounce, just down bounce. If is put barbells in the trunk then it balances out some Ive never done shocks before, I'll try to take a picture. sc

71SuperBee · « **Reply #518 on:** July 04, 2006, 12:39:04 PM »

Hey there smelly, I have new shocks and struts on my car and it still sits a little higher in the front like it is about to launch off into space, Apparently this is normal. Anyway how ya been??? I am very seriously thinkin about selling my super because it takes high test and i can't afford to drive it much, I would love to sell it to someone that would take care of it. I am afraid it will just rot. I have done to much to it to let it rot. lol.. Also on the fuel pump, it needs to be as close to the rear as possible from what I have seen, if u move it to the front it may not have enough push to get it all back there..

Smelly_Cat · « **Reply #519 on:** July 08, 2006, 11:30:59 AM »

I just scored a free second hand muffler for Stupey. Weird, one of my neighbors got it for me. I wonder if its a hint or somethiing. I try to keep it down when I crank it in the AM but everyone is up or should be by 730AM I'm sure. I guess we need 4 exhaust gaskets and I will have a Stealth super. I'll be quieter than a Camry. Is there cheap gaskets at Advance or do I need to get em at a VW store ? Any tips or tricks will be accepted. SC

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #520 on:** July 08, 2006, 01:21:57 PM »

Hey Big guy, How about a muff. installation kit ? They have everything you will need except tail pipe kits and tail pipes . Be careful about removing the 4 13mm nuts holding the muff. to the heads. They can be very tender and WILL break off. Not good ! Soak them down with some PB Blaster and try again. If they still will not move, Take a sharp small chisel and rap the nut on one of the flats on the nut a pretty good lick and more than likley they will come off. Just don't "strong arm" them. Breaking those ex. port studs off is not one of my favorite jobs to repair.
You might be lucky and have all 4 come off with no problem
Look at the" ends" of your heater boxes where the muff. connects on and be sure they not burnt off or a burned a hole in them. They will leak for sure. If they are bad, you can buy repair "ends" that fix that. Just saw off the burned pipes flush with the heater box and push the repair section in. They should be brazed in to do it right. Do it right and they will work. Saves you from buying a new box.
After that,if you break anything else , Shame on you ! :lol:

71SuperBee · « **Reply #521 on:** July 08, 2006, 01:37:20 PM »

SC SC S CSS CS C SCS CS CC alertalert alert..

Please read what bugtech has typed pleaseeeeeee heed this warning because i ended up "just wanting to put a new muffler on" and ended up with a new rebuilt engine, i am just saying please let them soak for days man, He is right they will rip right off... Becareful and good luck. I have had the same problem lol.......

Smelly_Cat · « **Reply #522 on:** July 08, 2006, 05:49:47 PM »

Bugtech, now Im scared. I'll start soaking them nuts today/
Heater boxes.. shmeater boxes. I think I just blow heat under my back seat anyway. I need to plug the darn thing up or port the hot air out like exhaust pipes . Ill see if I can get the old muff off before I buy muffler installation kits..hope it aint too expensive. Thanks for the Word UP . SC

71SuperBee · « **Reply #523 on:** July 08, 2006, 06:28:04 PM »

Smelly,

It isn't that expensive, kinda like 6 bucks or less i think for a whole kit, anyway if u do get the muffler off and decide u want to pull the engine a bit and get the heater boxes off u can get J tubes to replace them, that way all the heat goes out the back and doesn't linger. Just my opinion heheheh... But i will tell you, just beacause u get a muffler kit and a muffler it will be quite, because i thought the same thing and nope lol.. But is quiter than the one i pulled off, lol. i was thinkin about pulling mine off after soaking them everyday and putting a stinger on it lol.. But don't know yet lol

Ret.Bugtech · « **Reply #524 on:** July 09, 2006, 12:11:38 AM »

Wait a min. I think both of you have no idea whats in the heater boxes. The exhaust pipes for #1 and #3 cly run inside the boxes. SC ,if your heat is on all the time that means the levers on the boxes are stuck open. The air from the engine blow around the exhaust pipes and out the heater box into the car. You don't have to remove the boxes for crying out loud.
Come to think of it, I don't think you even had the pipes from the engine to the heater boxes did you ? Coke cans blocking off the fan shoud ?
No pipes, No heat in the car
If your boxes are good ,keep them on the engine, put the muff on and ride on
This is not that hard to do if you are careful with the 13mm nuts.
71 SB problem was that just about bolt on his cly heads was either
rung off, stripped, drilled to some way oversized hole that couldn't be used. A real mess. :roll:

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Topic: Help with Slow Starter (Read 224482 times)

copperjewel

Help with Slow Starter

Smelly_Cat

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Zen

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Zen

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Zen

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Smelly_Cat

Help with Slow Starter

Ret.Bugtech

Help with Slow Starter

Smelly_Cat

Help with Slow Starter

71SuperBee

Help with Slow Starter

Smelly_Cat

Help with Slow Starter

Ret.Bugtech

Help with Slow Starter

71SuperBee

Help with Slow Starter

Smelly_Cat

Help with Slow Starter

71SuperBee

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Ret.Bugtech

Help with Slow Starter

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