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Topic: Help with Slow Starter  (Read 224485 times)

Offline Smelly_Cat

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #360 on: March 20, 2006, 07:07:33 PM »
Zen,  
Here is the history of smellys brakes pedal
When I bought the Stupor,  the guy said that the brakes worked, so in his yard I pressed the pedal and the line that runs along the floor ruptured and sprayed my ankle. I should have known that when your VW pees on you it does not like you,  or maybe it does.  Bugtech probaly has a service manual on it.

 I got a coupling nut thing and some new brake line, cut the rusty line out and  scabed it to the existing line.  I could not get the brake line ends in Tee in front of the rear wheel to loosen free.   The brakes began to sort of work, but still not up to my high standards.  I took off the front wheels and made about 23 dirt daubers mad when i busted out all the dirt clod wasp houses.  The front shoes and wheel cyl seemed alright minus the dirt and junk, so I put the front back together.  Brakes got better but still not ready for prime time.  

Since the front pads were still good I figured the backs would be great,  They were good  except for the leaking cylinders.  I took the right wheel off and the pad was Ok, but the Cyl was leakin a little so I got a wheel cyl and put it back together.  The left back had a brake fluid all over the place so i had to get a Cyl and buy pads.  I put the new pads in the left.  I still have 2 new shoes incase I need them sometime in the future.  The E-brake began working.  It might come in handy sometime

Black stuff came out the bleeder when I bled them  so I changed all the flex hoses, all 4. really I did. count them.

So all I have left to do is the Master Cyl,  I think, Unless you see a flaw in my brake rebuilding technique.   SC

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #361 on: March 21, 2006, 08:47:19 AM »
Flaw !!!   The flaw starts with the first word of the second paragraph on down. Sounds like you are doing a brake job on a Mexican Greyhound bus. You know, the bus with the chickens on top.

Offline 71SuperBee

  • Cohutta,ga
  • Joined: Mar 2005
  • Posts: 351

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #362 on: March 21, 2006, 09:43:24 AM »
WOW, I tell you one thing, without david on here what would we do, why can't ya go and help the little feller out david? BP8 is on the horizon and the stupor beetle is still crippled, help him please..... I am afraid that the make shift "jack stands" will fall and cause him to watch bp8 from a vcr in the hospital. becareful smelly... :)

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #363 on: March 21, 2006, 10:42:54 AM »
Aaron, Two things you learn in the service. You say "yes sir" and you don't  "volunteer". When SC asks me, I might volunteer except in SC case Zen is right down street and he knows as much about brakes as I do and he won't throw  nearly as many Dasher parts/rocks as I would.  :lol:  :lol:  I really think SC would rather figure it out himselve. Like Boone said " You have to give the Guy some credit for trying on his on".  If he ever gets things fixed he can say "I did it my way" and he will have the only tudor 1600cc Kenmore in the Triangle. 8)

Offline 71SuperBee

  • Cohutta,ga
  • Joined: Mar 2005
  • Posts: 351

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #364 on: March 21, 2006, 11:08:57 AM »
David, I could see your point.. After being in some stuff I can see why a person wouldn not want to volunteer. WOW...  Hard enough at times. I know this is getting off the subject but i was told they can't press bushings out of a super's control arms. Is this true? I just think they didn't want to do it. Let me know if you can. I am in a hole right now waiting on two parts and now I can't get anyone to press the things out.. :)

Offline Smelly_Cat

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #365 on: March 21, 2006, 06:48:00 PM »
Bugtech I take it you are not a fan of the Super brass brake line coupling,  why is that?  Whats the harm?

Offline Zen

  • Show Chairman
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  • LaFayette, GA
  • Joined: Dec 2001
  • Posts: 8842
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Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #366 on: March 21, 2006, 11:30:19 PM »
Quote from: "Smelly_Cat"
Bugtech I take it you are not a fan of the Super brass brake line coupling,  why is that?  Whats the harm?


I'm not a fan of a compression coupling in the middle of a brake line either.  It's an all or nothing thing.  It will either work, or it will fail.  If it works . . . no problem :D .  If it fails . . . no brakes.   :shock:

I can probably get Kyle to pick you up a set of seat belts this weekend if you are still in the market for them.  They probably won't help you, but it should make the ambulance driver's job of finding your body easier if the coupling pops.

Hold on a second . . . let me climb up on this soap box over here . . . whew . . . gotta loose some weight . . . climbing up on this thing gets harder every time . . . ok, now that I'm here and had a second to catch my breath, let me preach a little.

Pick up those junk Dasher parts that the Godfather throws at us and build an engine out of them.  It doesn't matter if the rods are bent a little, none of the piston match and they don't quite fit in those worn out 1600 cylinders you pulled out of scrape heap.  Pull electric parts off of that old broken dryer and use them to "fix" your bug's electrical problems.  Put a big piece of plywood over the hole in the battery box and go on.  Hey, if it breaks down, at least you didn't have a lot of money tied up in it.  BUT DON'T SKIMP ON BRAKES!

You should be able to buy a brand new, decent quality master cylinder, 4 wheel cylinders, 4 brake hoses, all new shoes and all new metal lines for under $200.  New brake drums aren't really all that expensive either.  Fluid is cheap.  The correct hose that you need to connect your fluid reservior to the master cylinder IS expensive, but you don't need much of it.  Probably for under $300 you can replace EVERYTHING brake related on your car except the backing plates.  One trip in an ambulance will probably cost more.

My dad was a pretty sharp mechanic.  He always tried to do things the right way, but if it was his own personal vehicle and he was in a pinch for cash, he might try to cut a corner here or there . . . until it came to brakes.  If I heard him say it once, I heard it a thousand times when I was a kid . . . "If it won't go it might hurt your feelings, but if it won't stop it'll KILL you!"

OK, I'm done.  I'll hope down off this soap box now . . .

Offline Smelly_Cat

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #367 on: March 22, 2006, 07:03:17 AM »
Zen,  your zest for brakes is admirable, honest  and I hear you,  My delimma is that i fear of sinking money in a project that is a lost cause. This has lead me to use some dubious repair strategies.  My enthusiam for a project wains and flows, My 15 open projects around the house are a testament to that. Today, I might be driving through Lafayette and see a Sopwith Camel for sale that I just got to have.   But listen, Ye of little faith,  I usually fix it right in the end.  The little 1/2 gallon ATV gas tank has been replaced, and don't forget  the gas hose that ran over the top of the car, or  the hose that ran along the right rail. So yes I can fix the coupling,  that cabin brake line beat me once and I will attack it with vigor sometime in the near future.

So back to my question?,  whats wrong with a coupling?.   Do you reckon I need a master Cylinder  to get pressures up?   SC

Offline Smelly_Cat

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #368 on: March 22, 2006, 12:23:59 PM »
Zen,  I am sure I want some seatbelts,  especially with these brakes and maybe a helmet.
A VW guy that has a VW grave yard north of Cartersville told me that 71 and 72's have diff belts than other beetles and he had a set he could bring to the show for me.   His name was Frog and he had a nice camper he was bringin to PB8.  SC

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #369 on: March 22, 2006, 12:56:50 PM »
Hey ! I don't have a problem with the brass fitting. It works just find on my ice maker.  I bought a '70 Bug years ago for the engine and tranny after it looked like it took on the Sopwith-Camel in a head-on. The owner told me that his brakes failed. One of his 4 brass couplings blew off. Yeah I said 4.  It took a little while for him to explane what happened because his teeth were not where they belonged and about a inch of his tongue had departed to places unknow :pukeright:

Offline Smelly_Cat

Wish me luck, I have a master cyl to install

« Reply #370 on: March 25, 2006, 08:39:08 AM »
Has anybody got any tips or tricks for installing this master cyl?  
I will probaly end up having to  hack saw the old one off.
This new one I got looks like a universal fit, it has places for 4 brakelines to screw into

Zen,  whats the word on those life saving seatbelts you taunted me with?

SC

Offline Ret.Bugtech

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #371 on: March 25, 2006, 01:01:11 PM »
The lower threaded holes are for 2 brake light switches. Two bolts hold the cly. to the frame. Look where the cly. comes into the floor board to the push rod for the brake cly.  13mm head. Do not pull them all the way out or you will drop somes spacers and not be able to get them back. Loosen ALL the brake lines before you loosen the M.C. When you install the new M.C. start ALL brake lines before tighten M.C. down . This will help  you not to crossthread the lines. It wouldn't hurt to take the pushrod off the brake pedal if you want to. Makes it a little easier to deal with.
    If you don't want to do it this way, Now is the time for the hacksaw. :lol:  :lol:

Offline Smelly_Cat

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #372 on: March 25, 2006, 01:29:16 PM »
Thanks Bugtech,  I wondered where those spacers went.  Are the spacers important?  I just put it all back together with out them.  I wondered why the bolts did not seem to get tight enough...crap.
I got one spacer out and the other is in the firewall somewhere.
I suppose I need to take it all apart again.   Second times a charm

Oh ya,  I tried to drive the bug onto the ramps this morning to change the master cyl  and I drove off the end of the ramp cause I did not have any Brakes.  I need to think these things thru better.  I took a picture so I can remember this and not do it again.   The front end of the super has so much clearance it did not bend anything and I just pulled out the ramps.   I felt so stupid. I'm glad no one knows about or saw me. sc

Offline 71SuperBee

  • Cohutta,ga
  • Joined: Mar 2005
  • Posts: 351

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #373 on: March 25, 2006, 02:24:55 PM »
I commend smelly on doing it all his self, That is the only way to learn to work on your own as I have learned. I think every bug is specific to a certain person, yours loves ya SC, take care of her for a long time.

 WEll I know this is changin the subject but, I did get the strut mounts in, got them put in got the struts all together, I hope I did it right i used the spacers that came with the older ones, also the new strut mount bearings are sealed!!! and the orignal dustcaps are not needed, but i greased the bottom and top with lithium grease and put the dust caps on there. Anyway i got the new bushings in the track arms, David I looked at the book and the book refers to the "track control arm" as being the name that is where I got the control arm. Well back to you SMelly. Good going.....  WAHOOOOOO  :D

Offline Smelly_Cat

Help with Slow Starter

« Reply #374 on: March 26, 2006, 12:38:01 PM »
All
I got ones of  spacers that i did not know what to do with and was able to put it in place from inside of the cabin.  Whewee.. luck break for me indeed.  Taking apart all those hoses and brake lines would have made me sad. Did you know that the master cly spacer is the exact size  of the push rod that goes in to the master cyl. Those crafty Germans.  Thats were I thought the spacer  went on until Bugtech told me that I had 2 spacers.
I should be able to pick up a spare spacer at BP8, if I'm lucky
I still got a ton of air in the lines,  Maybe today I'll get brake pedal I can be proud off.   SC

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