Pressure bleeding? what is that?  is it like bleeding the lines while you get yelled at?

Fill up the reservior and instead of putting the cap on it, hook up the pressure bleeder.  Pressurize the reservior, then open the bleeder screws one at a time and let all the air and old fluid flow.  When new, clean fluid is running out of it, close the bleeder, top off the reservior, pressurize it again, and move to the next bleeder.

The problem with the old pump and hold method is that it can sometimes break big air bubbles into thousands of tiny air bubbles.  The fluid is constantly moving back and forth through the lines as it's working it's way out . . . it's kind of a "Three Steps Forward, Two Steps Back" deal.  Sometimes the tiny air bubbles hang up in the lines and the fluid works it's way around them.  With pressure bleeding, fluid moves from the reservior straight through the master cylinder, brake lines and out the bleeders at the wheel cylinders.

To improvise a pressure bleeder, get a spare reservior cap, drill a hole in the top of it and insert a valve stem in it.  I've had pretty good luck just pressing them into the hole, but I guess it wouldn't hurt to put a little sealer of some kind on it.  If it doesn't seal good on reservior, you may have to find a flat O-ring of some kind or cut out a piece of rubber to make a seal.  Once you have this new cap with the valve stem sealed to the top of the reservior, pump in just a little pressure on the reservior (it doesn't take much pressure . . . too much will bust the reservior).

The hardest part is making sure you don't run the reservior dry and pump air back into the master cylinder.  If you do a real good job with your improvised pressure system, this can be a one man job . . . but if you have someone to run the pump and watch the fluid level, you can get the job done as fast as you can run around the car and open and close the bleeders even if your pressure system leaks a little.

By the way, brake fluid should be CHANGED every couple of years.  The brake fluid reservior is not sealed from the atmosphere and the fluid will absorb water from the air.  This water leads to rust, corosion, etc. in the internal workings of the brake's hydraulic system if it's left there.  Once you have everything working right, if you pressure bleed the system every couple of years you'll get rid of the water in the old fluid and you're system will work much better, much longer.  

This  metal bracket thing was in  my VW trunk,  can anyone tell me iff it goes on the bug somewhere.  SC

The name works for me.  That plate is suppose to slow down the impact of that SUV / Kenworth as it makes its way toward the driver in the event of a un-intentional meeting .   VW thought so highly of the safety of the Souls onboard that this plate was tossed when the car had A/C installed at the dealership. The A/C condenser was installed in the area of the plate. :roll:    :?

Man oh Man,  you are going to be so proud of me.  I got a carb from my source in Trion, It is a German carb and not a Mexico carb. First run the float valve was stuck open and I filled my mufler with a liter of petro.  Cleaned the valve and stepped away from the engine and  RRRRRoooom.   The bug ran better but i still had no power and it seemed like the pedal did not have enough range to it.  . After looking at things,  the bolt that secures the throttle cable sticks out about a inch and it was hitting a Carb lever at about 33% of throttle.  I hack sawed the excess threads off the bolt and WOWWEE,   power city baby,  full thottle .  I can climb hills all the way up in  third gear. I still have not drove out of the sub divison  yet to see if 4th gear works.  

I had not secured my rust hole cover floor pans and when i hit a bumps it sounded like metal garbage can lids banging together.  Today I Riveted the "Crafted by Smelly Cat"  floor pans and Oh what a feeling,  silence, well almost,  but definitely quieter  and I don't have to look in the rear view mirror anymore  when i hit pot holes to see if I dropped a car part.

I filled my bug sprayer with a bleach and water mixture and sprayed down the interior, things smells much better now. After un grimming the dash board knobs,  I saw a  fan knob that does not activate any air movement.  I don't see a fan motor anywere.  is the blower supposed to be in the Cabin or in the Hood?     THx SC

S/C

I feel like an outkast.  No one talks to me anymore.

I was wonder where you had been!  I was getting ready to drive around Emerald Acres and see if the back side of it had been blown off the map or something.

On the timing . . . there are lots of different pulleys out there.  Some have one mark, some have two or three . . . some have marks that have been added, some marks may have been ground off . . . and then there is a host of "aftermarket" pulleys . . . some good, some great, some junk.  BugTech can tell you more about identifying pulleys . . . Figure out where top dead center is at and mark the pulley at the split in the block if it isn't already marked there.

Now, set your point gap to .016"  Get the timing close enough so the engine will run.  HOOK UP A TIMING LIGHT with a degree offset.  Set it up for 32 degrees advance and start the engine.  Rev the engine until you get maximum advance . . . 1500 to 2000 RPMs . . . and turn the distributor until the top dead center mark is showing at the split in the case.  You now have the spark under full advance at 32 degrees befor top dead center.  LOCK THE DISTRIBUTOR DOWN AND KEEP AWAY FROM IT.  If you've got problems, look somewhere else.  There is nothing more you can do at the distributor to make it run better.  Well, you can advance it a little more and get a few extra horsepower for a few miles . . . and if you liked that extra power you can build a bigger engine now that you've melted down your present one.

On second thought, one problem you might be having that could be timing related . . . make sure that your advance is actually working.  If it's vacuum advance, pulling a vacuum on the line should move the points plate.  When you let off the vacuum it should move back.  If it's centrifical advance, you should be able to turn the rotor button a few degrees with the distributor installed . . . when you let go of it, it should spring back.  If these things don't happen, you advance isn't working properly.

Bugtech you are right ,  Im confused,

I checked real close and all i have is one pully notch.  My Timing light is broke ( dropped too much , i think) , so I borrowed Franks. His is  red and has a sticker that says it cost $5.89,  it does not have a visable advance knob.  That must be the $9.99 model strobe light with an advance
I think the points are set as good as I can get them.  I just tightend them a little closer.
The valves are all probaly set a little to the loose side.
When I strobe the pulley and goose the gas, the timing mark moves to the left maybe 20 degrees.  I think that mean advance is OK.  Its a centrifugal kind

So after reading your posts,  the notch is carved at 5% advance, The problem is that I can not get it to run there.  Mabe 1inch to left of the pully notch works the best.  Would fat gap points make the timing shift?

SC

Quit messing with the points. Set them on 16 and stand away.  Yes indeed ,everytime you change point settings , your timing changes.
    If you are positive about having the one "notch", this would be "0" degrees. About 1 inch to the RIGHT is going to be real close to 32 degrees. Put a mark there and split the case with it. Your dist. appears to be working OK. If the engine still won`t perform , you have a problem somewhere else.
   This is so simple,even a caveman can do it !!  ](*,)

Smelly buddy,
  Umm if your mark is off the break of the case to the left turn the dizzy to the right I think, If it is to far to the right then turn the dizzy left this will advance the timing by going left and decrese it by going right.. And as far as the carb, after over a year I finally got mine to idle perfect and to start up perfect when hot. This is something you have to learn. The starting place on the volume is 2.5 out after bottoming out if I am correct. Just start there again and let her warm then make adjustments.. And you will have to work with it over a period of time to get the final adjustments. It took me over a year to figure this out..

   Aaron :lol: