SC,

   1971 Was the first year of the super beetle. They didn't make a 1970 Model. I mean it may have been made in late 70's but it would be a 1971 I think. Correct me If I am wrong GODFATHER,
   HAHAHA

   AAron

Why don`t you put a pic. of the front of the car on here along with the VIN # and we will tell you what you have.

:oops: That's a 1970 VIN for sure.  That's a picture of a Super Beetle for sure.  There are exceptions for every rule . . . I guess there had to be some proto-types . . . but if the sticker on the door post says November 1970, it should be a 71.  Someone could have used a 70 standard Beetle pan and welded a Super Beetle frame head on it and moved the body to the 70 pan . . . but that seems like a whole lot of trouble . . .

Whatever it is and however it got that way, legally it is a 1970.  And it is a Super Beetle.    :?

Hey ! No doubt its a 1970 pan.  Look under the front hood and see if there is a small data plate somewhere around the tire well. Get the numbers and we will  check this out. Maybe this car is not a export model.  This is worth checking out. :?:

Zen/Bugtech
The rat you smell,   is not a rat,  it is a cat,  and it is me.
The 3rd number is a 1,  you guys are right.  Your always right.  Curses.. I'll be right someday,  I'm smart enough to be right . and I'll be back, just you wait,  someday,  someday soon,  you will be seek the  wisdom of the Smelly Cat.  SC

Oh Wisemen of the Volk,
Enlosed is a pic of my floor ,  or lack there of.
Please keep in mind the next 2 statements:
1st - I don't have a welder
2nd  - I don't have any money for a replacement pan

What I do have is this:  one borrowed rivet gun and a piece of sheet metal.  I also have a can of naval jelly that I   (I is used as a code for  "my kids")  plan to spread around ,  then sand ,  then paint with rustoleom

What is the best way to place this?
Shall I cut a piece or maybe 2  and lay it INSIDE the car on top of the rust holes?
OR
Place the metal  UNDER the rust holes?
OR
I dont know , but you will tell me

When I was a younger, I would fiberglass the rust holes,  now that I'm older and wiser, I ain't going no where near fiberglass or resin,  if I can help it.  SC

Is there a standard floor pattern to copy from to cut with?

They make patch pannels that will repair this area.  I've never used them, but they should be pretty easy to rivit in.  Lay the pannel in on top of the rusty floor, mark around the edge of it, then cut it out about an inch or so inside the line.  They make a special vice-grip-like tool to go around the edge of pannels and make a flange so the new pannel will lay in flush, but I would think that being what it is and where it is, it'll probably be ok just sitting on top of the old floor.  Clean up and paint the old pan, then put down a real good bead of seam sealer . . . set the new pannel in place and rivit the fool out of it.  It won't look pretty from underneath, but unless you're building it with the intent of winning trophies, who cares?  Plain old sheet metal will function just as well, but won't look and fit quite as good.  Fiberglass is super stuff for this kind of work . . . but it can get expensive if you need a lot of it.

If and when you get ready to fix it right, we have a club member that does excellent floor pan work.  I don't know what he charges to install a set of pans, but I'm sure it's as cheap as you'll find.

I've "fixed" floor pans with sheet metal (everthing from galvanized duct metal to old road signs to the sheet metal skin off an old water heater to old car tags) . . . I've "fixed" 'em with fiberglass . . . and a couple of times I've FIXED 'em with new pans.  But I don't have a welder either . . . so mine are pop-rivited in.  Like Ret.Bugtech said.  Be creative.  This is one place you can do it and get away with it.  As long as it keeps the what's outside from coming in, and keeps you from falling out the bottom of the car going down the road, it's fixed.  The rest is just cosmetic.  

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